If you love tiki bars, tropical cocktails, or the colorful history behind what’s in your glass, the lively documentary “The Donn of Tiki” is well worth your time. Directed by Alex Lamb and Max Well, the film takes a look at the life of Donn Beach, widely regarded as the father of tiki culture. His Hollywood bar, Don the Beachcomber, opened in 1932 and helped spark a movement that would go on to influence cocktail culture for generations. The documentary explores the man behind the legend and the origins of a uniquely American fascination with all things tropical.
Born Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt, Donn was a restless character who seemed determined to make his own legend. He told stories of running rum during Prohibition, traveling through Jamaica, and helping supply troops during World War II. Some were true, some were embellished, and others remain difficult to pin down. The film has a good time sorting fact from fiction, including the competing origin stories behind his famous Zombie cocktail. Beach was also a gifted mixologist who guarded his elaborate rum-based recipes like state secrets, which no doubt has been a testament to his success.
The documentary’s visual style is a real treat. With little archival footage available from Donn’s early years, the filmmakers turn to hand drawn illustrations and stop motion animation, using audio from a 1986 interview to bring his stories to life. The animation is playful, imaginative, and full of personality. Interviews with respected cocktail historians (including Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Sven Kirsten, and Shannon Mustipher) add substance to the colorful film. There’s plenty here for newcomers, but longtime enthusiasts will find even more to enjoy. Tiki geeks will be in absolute heaven.
The main drawback is that the film occasionally feels more like a chronological checklist than a deeper exploration of its subject. Nearly everyone interviewed seems to adore Donn, and while his talent and influence are undeniable, the near universal admiration leaves little room for a more critical look at the man behind the mythology. The documentary is clearly a celebration of his legacy and not an attempt to tear it down, but a little more candor about his personal shortcomings might have made this a richer and more well-rounded portrait.
Entertaining and colorful, “The Donn of Tiki” is a good introduction to the man who helped turn tropical escapism into a distinctly American pop culture phenomenon. It captures the ingenuity, showmanship, and sheer eccentricity that made Donn Beach such a fascinating figure. Consider it a history lesson served with a generous pour of rum. I’ll happily raise a glass to that.
By: Louisa Moore
